Andaman Sea

A very late post about our time in South West Thailand. Apart from are urban and nature adventures we had, we also wanted to get some time in on the beach and Thailand is famous for the many beautiful islands in the Andaman Sea. Everyone talks about Phuket,  but after doing some research, we discovered that Phuket isn't really recommended for visiting and staying. It's too touristy and there other places you can stay that are cheaper, smaller, more cultural, and where you can still easily get to the islands.         

So we booked a hotel in Krabi and that was our central point for 5 days. We used the numerous little travel agencies that help you book trips to all the islands to organize our time there. To visit most of the islands you have to take a speed boat. For about 20 euros for the day they come and pick you up at your hotel and take you to the "port." You're loaded into a speed boat with about 20 other people and you stop to go snorkeling, stop at at least 2 islands, and lunch is provided. Unfortunately this is really the only way to see these islands without spending a ton of money on a private boat. These days were really stressful. The boats were over crowded and there was enough time to actually relax and enjoy the island. It was just enough time to get some photos. 

 

Our first day in Krabi we found a private boat that was going to Railay. We waited for 4 more people to join our boat and we went over together. Railay was the absolute best part of our trip. It was quiet, slow paced, beautiful, and relaxing. If we had known, we would have booked a hotel at Railay and stayed there much longer. In fact we went there the first day and we didn't know what to do the last day in Krabi so we decided to go back. 

In Railay we had a small adventure. There was a high point where there was supposedly a good view of the island. However to get there we had to climb up this hill. It had a big rope running down the hill to help you climb up. It was very deceptive and thought it was just first bit up hill and then there would be a path. But we were wrong. The further we went up the more vertical it became. It was a very exhausting difficult climb. It was slippery and we were both wearing flip flops.  Going up was thing and going down was even more difficult. 

View at the top of the difficult, muddy, slippery climb

The other days we visited the Phi Phi Islands and Hong Islands along with the spot where they filmed The Beach and some other places that I honestly don't remember the name of. 

This was a nice change from the bustling city and constant van rides. However, spending more than 5 days would be difficult unless you chose just one island to relax on and not move around. So this was definitely a good way to end our time in Thailand before heading into Malaysia. 

Northern Thailand

So apart from cooking classes and jungle hiking, we also took a very long, full day trip to visit some hot springs, the famous White Temple, the Golden Triangle, the border of Thailand and Myanmar, AND the Karen Long-Neck Tribe.  Yes, all of this in one day. 

Wat Rong Khun, is the White Temple in Chiang Rai, slightly East of Chiang Mai. The white temple is actually really quite new, with construction starting in the 1960's that was eventually finished in the late 90's. As you can see the whole temple is white- 97% as the other 3% are slivers of glass. The color white symbolizes purity and goodness. 

After visiting this temple, which was a breath of fresh air from other temples since it's so different. We raced on over in the tour van to catch the boat to visit the Golden Triangle. 

The Golden Triangle is where Laos, Myanmar, and Thailand all meet, being divided by the Ruak River. It gets it's name from the opium trade. Luca wrote an article about it for Cronache Internazionale, you can read it here: The Business of the Evil Flower. 

This part of the trip is really only interesting if you know some of the history. Apart from seeing the river, we stopped on an island of Laos and walked around for a bit. They gave us a memorabilia stamp on a separate piece of paper and if you wanted you could try the local whiskey that has either a snake, scorpion, or tiger's penis soaking in it. We passed on trying the local whiskey, but we did try some Laos beer. 

 Along with riding down the river where Thailand meets with it's Northern neighbors, we got into the tourist van and drove to the Myanmar and Thailand border. Again, here there is a bridge that is historical for the many people who died on it while trying to cross it during some period of unrest. Luca knew a little of the history and so appreciated seeing it. 

                                 

To finish off the day trip, we visited the Karen Long-Neck tribe. It was a very strange experience. We had to pay to visit their village, where all the women were sat in an open space "hut" working on making scarves which they also sell. It almost felt like they were on display and it didn't feel right taking their photo. 

These women start wearing the golden brass rings around their neck as young as 5 years old and will continue to add rings until they're in their 80's. The started to wear the rings for 3 reasons. The first it was a means of protection from tigers, which go for the throat. Secondly it was considered beautiful. Lastly, the longer your neck, the closer you are to the spirits. However, we didn't know if these women are forced to continue this tradition just as a means to earn money, or if it really is a continued practice in their tribe. 

These people are originally from Burma, but fled the country in the 1980's. They live out in the countryside of Northern Thailand, where the men of the tribe make their living from working the fields. 

Chiang Mai

After our adventures in Bangkok, we took a VIP night bus up to Chiang Mai. The buses in Thailand, are actually really a great way to travel around. If you get a first class ticket for around $15, you get a seat that reclines almost all the way back, a blanket, a pillow, water, fruit juice, and some snacks! We left Bangkok at 11:30 pm and arrived in Chiang Mai at 9 am the following day all rested up. 

Chiang Mai is a university town, with coffee shops on every corner and great restaurants, but not much more than that. However, it is a good center point to visit the White Temple, The Golden Triangle, and go jungle trekking. 

Our first day in Chiang Mai we signed up for a cooking class. It was a really fun experience! There were only 2 other couples so it felt very comfortable and intimate. We picked our menu out together -  Dtom Yum Goong (Shrimp and coconut soup), Pud See Yoo Gai (Stir fried thick rice noodles with chicken), Gaeng Kieow Wan Gai (Chicken with Green Curry) where we had made the curry paste by  hand with all fresh ingredients, and lastly for dessert Glooay Tord (Fried bananas with thick coconut toffee!)

The lady was very nice and spoke English well. The food was absolutely delicious. And we got a recipe book at the end. So now we can try to attempt these recipes in Italy!

After a night of cooking, the next morning we were up bright and early to head into the jungle for some trekking, with an overnight stay without electricity, sleeping with the animals. It was a pretty quick drive in the back of a truck. First we stopped at a waterfall to have lunch which they gave us pre- "wrapped" and got a swim in. Then we started hiking, crossing rivers, through rice paddies, up and over the hills to our final destination. 

Oh! Just some fried rice is inside!

Mystery wrapped lunch

  

Dinner by candle light 

Where we slept

 There were 9 of us in the hiking group: 3 girls from Barcelona, a couple from Granada, a couple from the UK, and us. It was a very tiring hike since it was ridiculously hot and the first half was all up hill. But it was beautiful to be in such a quiet, peaceful place, going to bed with sun, and rising with sun. At first we had our doubts about the overnight, but afterwards we were really glad we did it! 

It was raining the next morning, so we had to put on our ponchos